Casprini da Omero
Passo dei Pecorai, 68/70
50020 - Greve in Chianti (Fi)
Evolution of Chianti Classico from Our Point Of View
Defining the concept of quality.
We now trying to examine the basic concept which bring us to take our decision and make our choices in matters of taste. What quality is?
If eating or drinking it’s just to provide to body the nutritious components for survive, then quality is balancing scientific substances. If quality is also taste, flavours and therefore pleasure, then quality must also follow concepts like naturalness, methods of farming or production, smart determination to combine flavours and fragrances. If quality is connected to a typical land or area or a group of people, then quality must be also strongly connected to their cultural tradition, otherwise is innovation.
Giving you a pratical example. You arrive to Florence to see Michelangelo's David
Well, this great opera was created by a man. Like all men he had merits and defects. The statue is not immune. Its head, hands and feet clearly disproportionate to the rest of the body. Perhaps das it give less value to the opera? No, there are works and creations that stimulate our senses, such as art and food that does not necessarily have to be perfect. Art creations, food or anything else, should have a sense, a logic of the artist. The artist culture which take us from the past and through the present, it projects us to the future. If it’s not that, than quality are just the perfect David copies you can find at the souvenir shops. They are perfect: made by machines able to duplicate exactly the original in every single detail, to a immense number of copies. The David is not a souvenir!
So do not make mistakes: the statements of too many 'beginners' who are facing to the wine and they spent all their forces, to claim industrial wines perfectly balanced made in serial copies, probably made a the greatest possible mistake: confusing the art of producing something alive and unique, to the flat invaluable feeling of something pressed in series. A natural wine, after 1 hour of oxygenation regains smell, taste and life even after 40 years of aging. A wine built and fully stabilized in cellar, after an hour if it doesn’t become undrinkable, it is not good even to get your home made vinegar. That’s a fact.
Discovering the evolution of Chianti Classico during the last years.
You will found out with deep regret that the real Chianti Classico, no longer exists in fact. Some questions for you I would like you to answer your self honestly. Should you never go to Greece to drink Spanish wines? Should you never go to Britain to eat Greek food? Even either you should never go to Egypt to drink German beer. With all my deeper respect to all those which offer their traditional dishes in other countries, they should be the exception the rule and not the rule!If you come to Italy should therefore find typical regional products (synonymous of typical= distinctive, classic, local, peculiar) the current Chianti Classico has nothing to do with the Tuscany. It’s a international wine, with a international structure without a soul.
How we arrive to this?
During ‘70s farmers start to stop to work for the nobles farm owners and move to the cities to find and get a work well paid. This large “plots escape” continued till almost all ‘80s. The farms structured in a couple of main houses for owner and fattore and his family (fattore=farmer, Italian meaning. Fattore is the right hand of the owner). The real farm worker families in each house. Every house had its plots for anything possible: vegetables, fruit, grain, wine and oil, chickens, pigeons, cows, sheeps. All you need to survive and sell. The mechanisation was introduced and so many plots assigned exclusively to oil or wine production only. In 1986 happened 2 important things without any relation. A big scandal with a artificial wine was up on every media. 19 people had eyes injuries and some died. A bad addition of grain alcohol. In the same time, DOC (denomination origin controlled) started and just 5 wines already had it and one was Chianti Classico. I do not remember the others, honestly. All people started to buy only the DOC wines and the production started to be improved very fast. To answer to all so much demanding people, they started to cut the old quality plants and introduced new plants with bigger grape-fruit, intensified the number of plants per hectare. White wines separated by the reds and now you know how and why galestro born;). Introduced now varieties like Merlot and cabernet. It was important anymore to explain how the musician group was playing. The great group destroyed to get more money from the thirsty marked. It was even better, because produces even had to spend money for marketing. Removing the white grapes resolved the maturation and storage problems in adequate cellars. White grapes matures faster then red. Without a clever plantation was not possible to make the original Chianti Classico. At the bottom of hills there were the plots with white grape, at the top, the plots with red grapes as they could get more sun. Well I’m not crazy when I say that the biggest part of producers are just playing with your ingenuity. DOC, DOCG do not guarantee anything in fact. That’s the common way to overcome the rules;) Mr Francesco Arrigoni explain it so well here;). Why should you trust me or him? Well ask around how many times they had 2 or 3 hearvest a year..... (LOL);)