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Evolution of Chianti Classico from Our Point Of View

Changing the Original Recipe and definitive abandonment of tradition

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Original recipe of Bettino Ricasoli (Georgofili Academy - Florence)

Tab 2/b
Sangiovese toscano Canaiolo Nero Trebbiano Toscano Malavasia toscana Colorino

«Sangiovese, which gives body and colour till 7/10. Canaiolo nero, which gives parfume and softness till 2 /10. Trebbiano and Malvasia which give acidity and ligtht smoothness till 2 /10»

Ricasoli comment in 1872: «I confirmed myself the results I already obtained in the first experience: the wine receives from Sangioveto (Sangiovese) the main part of its fragrance (and that’s what I want) and a certain feeling of vigor; from Canaiuolo (Cannaiolo) the amicability which tempers the hardness of the first, without taking  away its fragrance even if Canaiolo has its own too.; Malvagia (Malvasia), which could be not used in wines destinated tp ageing. It tends to dilute the product of the first two grapes, enhances the flavour and makes it more soft.»

In fact, the first recipe was always the only one adopted.  In fact is Trebbiano the main responsible of a dilution, not malvasia. At second, the wise use of those two white grapes give the wine brilliance and vitality. We can drink a traditional Chianti Classico even with the fish! The problem of white grapes in ageing wines, causes the colour turns in a quicker way. Nothing more. Demonstration: 40 years wines where you can still feel taste of grapes. In modern wines you cannot find this, you just cannot. Opening a bottle like this it’s not only drink, it’s a archaeologic discover: you can give life to perfumes and tastes you cannot find anymore

Change in 1996: 'Article 2. The wine 'Chianti Classico' must be made from grapes produced in the production area bounded in article 3 and coming from vineyards which, in business, the following composition ampelographic: - Sangiovese: from 75 to 100% - Canaiolo black: up to 10% - Malvasia and Trebbiano Tuscan Chianti individually or jointly, up to 6% . may also contribute to production, the grapes of red grape recommended and / or authorized administrative units in the area of production of grapes described in Article 3 up to a maximum of 15% of total screws. ' (disciplinare del chianti classico 1996).

Change in 2002: " Article 2.The 'Chianti Classico' wine must be made from grapes produced in the production area bounded in Art. 3 of this production disciplinary and coming from vineyards which, in business, have the following composition ampelographic: Sangiovese minimum 80%, may assist in the production of the wine grapes red berries from the vines recommended and / or authorized administrative units in the area of production of grapes in Article. 3 above up to a maximum of 20% of the area Registered Vineyards. Until the harvest of 2005 included, could be part of the wine production, jointly or severally, to a maximum of 6% Tuscan Trebbiano grape and white Malvasia". (www.agraria.org)

Change in 2006: 'In the new governing the minimum percentage of Sangiovese is increased from 75 to 80%. Sangiovese may be, of course, also vinified 'alone' (100%). Together Sangiovese may be other varieties berried red (those native, as Canaiolo and Colorino, and other 'international' as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), in a maximum percentage of 20%, while white grapes (Malvasia and Trebbiano) can no longer be used from the 2006 vintage '. (consorzio del chianti classico)

Statistic of wine

The original 'recipe' des not longer exists. Indeed, with a “kick” to 2300 years of tradition,  replaced by triple quantity of wine per hectare looking for just one simple thing: a bigger 'market-slice'.

Well read this article.. it makes me cry... French wine? Here? .. yeah!

Through these laws and regulations, in fact, they forbid all producers to express their self in freedom trough our traditional recipes. That’s absolutely and totally, just craziness. Originally there was just one recipe only, a single wine. Now that wine doesn’t exist anymore.Well it nevever existed! By law, we cannot any longer make it. It’s like to say: “Michelangelo’s David never existed.'

If you look up the table at left, this competition it’s simply a utopia. In among the countries on the list, only Germany and France are those who have historic ancient life. Or rather, they did not  had hard colonisation where local populations have been replaced. It’s non finished yet: in France and Germany, the use of tasty grapes (merlot, cabernet, syrah), is justified by their culture, their history and country latitude. Spain has never erased its cultural traditions. Instead Spain, has strenuously defended them, and complemented it with new products. The only country that really has behaved like a perfect unleashed crazy, its sadly Tuscan-Italy

Now maybe you come here to visit a farm and taste a wine. Maybe you are searching for something special, maybe you want to buy something special but what will you find? Meanwhile, a farm has a special tax over the wine. It’s  20% on the final price. Producers collected  this 20% and they do not give it to the state. It’s a  kind of surcharge which is not paid by a foreign importer. So, a U.S. importer, has a quantity discount, and a 20% discount provided by law. You will arrive to a farm and you will find the same wine you find in a shop close home at a simply higher price. A bottle which cost directly in a farm at €7.50, is usually sold in a grocery shop (even Italian) at about €5,00-€5,50.

Now maybe you come here to visit a farm and taste a wine. Maybe you are searching for something special, maybe you want to buy something special but what will you find? Meanwhile, a farm has a special tax over the wine. It’s  20% on the final price. Producers collected  this 20% and they do not give it to the state. It’s a  kind of surcharge which is not paid by a foreign importer. So, a U.S. importer, has a quantity discount, and a 20% discount provided by law. You will arrive to a farm and you will find the same wine you find in a shop close home at a simply higher price. A bottle which cost directly in a farm at €7.50, is usually sold in a grocery shop (even Italian) at about €5,00-€5,50. To conclude this absurd properly Italian history, what you are going to buy here, it’s a wine produced in Italy, Tuscany, which is hidden the difference from the real tradition, which is often even not what you think to buy, which is “typical Italian” only in the name. All the rest,  well, it could come from mars!

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